Wednesday 26 February 2014

Jewelry-maker’s Armed — and she’s got brass

Armed, 1024 Dundas St. W.

Intimidation factor: Zero. Armed jewelry store is tiny, a petite bijou.

Number of salespeople on floor: Two, owner Desiree Girlato and her intern.

Response time: Immediate. Girlato greets us as if we’re guests to her party, which in fact we become. Random shoppers are like new BFF’s.

Vibe: Miley Cyrus’s jewelry box meets antique curio shop.

Price range: From $25 for earrings to $500 for a solid brass body chain with a chandelier crystal.

Rating: Four raven-feathered bib necklaces out of four.

I had spotted Armed while on the streetcar, attracted by the name — let alone the big revolver painted on the yellow brick at the side of the building.

Say what?

So I am not completely surprised that the designer/owner Desiree Girlato is a ballsy rock chick.

She is the coolest kid in the class, rocking a pair of overalls top-loaded with multiples of necklaces and bracelets which she can totally pull off despite her tiny frame. She is effusive and warm without being bubbly. I want to adopt her on the spot.

Girlato has been in the Trinity-Bellwoods location for three years. “There are a lot of bad-ass chicks owning stores here,” she says. “And Queen St. has hellish rent.”

Armed boutique on Dundas St. W. at Trinity-Bellwoods park is like Miley Cyrus’s jewelry box meets antique curio shop.

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Girlato works exclusively with brass. “I hate plated and I love black and gold.”

She is armed with goodies and dangerous to the wallet. I love the necklace with heavy lock on it but it feels too short. She disappears upstairs and returns with a longer version. Perfect!

And how cool is the double brass chain necklace with two pieces of brass plumbing ($195)?

She sources found material all over the world and is not above going to Value Village to pick up old jewelry and deconstruct it. There is a shrine to fearless fashion navigator Tilda Swinton, featuring the first piece Girlato ever made, a necklace repurposed from gems from the jewelry box of her grandmother, her style icon.

Her decor is vintage and eclectic: a Georgia O’Keeffe skull she got in Texas displaying a bauble from Value Village; her grandmother’s vintage gilt phone; her grandfather’s boxing trophies spray-painted white; an old typewriter; a faded Oriental rug on the floor; vintage mink stoles (for sale for $150); and stacked pieces of antique luggage.

There is exotica like a tooth/fossil from a megalodon shark, an extinct prehistoric species, which she bought in Arizona for $1,200. She has solid-brass cuffs with shark teeth, tusks, hunks of amethyst and quartz that aren’t hippy-dippy but kick-butt vibe.

A bib of silver coins references the red-hot boho trend, as does the black silk fringe necklace on a double strand of heavy chain. A smaller chain with a revolver on it ($65) subversively opens up into a penknife but don’t be wearing it through airport security.

She stocks inventive eyewear like a pair of sunnies inscribed with “Cross My Heart, Hope To Die, Stick A Needle In My Eye.” Just add hip hop artist and stir.

But you don’t have to be Gwen Stefani to be Armed. There are delicate pieces like necklaces with antique pins that the Duchess of Windsor would covet and ones with dainty acrylic flowers and neon Swarovski pearls at the centre which Girlato calls her “Berkeley collection” because Berkeley was synonymous with “flower power” in the ‘70s.

She picks up a $150 vintage head piece with a chain at the back from a chandelier. It looks like something one of the denizens of Downton Abbey might wear.

“Next time I go to brunch, I’ll wear this,” she vows.

Sunday 23 February 2014

Girls Interrupted: Dan Caten Talks Dsquared²’s Manic Fall Femmes

“She’s crazy,” said Dsquared²’s Dan Caten during a late-night phone interview from his and brother Dean’s Milan studio. “Crazy for fashion!” he added. The disturbed femme to whom he’s referring is the brand’s Fall ’14 woman, who will be revealed in all her manic glory during Dsquared²’s runway show on February 24. “She lives in a perturbed, wonderful world of lostness,” he continued. “It’s a sixties trip meets Girl Interrupted meets Grey Gardens. Her head is twirling, she’s hearing things, and she’s mad, in a weird way.” If anyone can bring this twisted fantasy to life, it’s the Catens, whose Fall menswear collection offered a tongue-in-cheek take on prison life. Speaking of which, we’ve been told that the house’s Fall girl has a bit in common with its menswear bad boys; however, “she’s not going to jail, but she’s definitely going to a correctional institute—let’s just put it that way.”

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At the end of the day, Dan assured, this collection is all about beautiful clothes. “They’re almost couture-y for us,” he explained, noting that the brothers’ runway extravaganzas allow them to explore the most glamorous depths of their imaginations. “We do so many collections now that we don’t only need to focus on making money off this show. It’s just pure excitement.” This season, said excitement is communicated via hyper-luxe materials (think mink, snakeskin, feathers, silk, and tweed), OTT embroidery, sexy silhouettes, and—Dan’s favorite part—lots of sparkle.

But on whom, pray tell, did the designers base their beautiful Fall lunatics? “Dean and I are really the crazy women in the show. We love fashion, and we just want to dress up like this all the time.” (Anyone who’s seen the pair’s Spring ’13 film knows he’s not exaggerating.)

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When quizzed about the craziest thing he and his brother have done of late, Dan laughed. “Umm… sleep? We never have time to do that, so if we do, it’s totally crazy.” Unfortunately for the Catens, they won’t be indulging in this insane practice after taking their bows tomorrow. “As if we weren’t tired enough, right after the show we’re going to be judges on the Italian Project Runway.”

Tune in to the Dsquared² live stream, and on the brand’s Twitter and Facebook pages at 9:30 a.m. CET tomorrow, and join the conversation by using the hashtag #perturbedwonderful. In the meantime, Dsquared² sent us some behind-the-scenes preview images, including a look at a hair test with Sam McKnight. Full disclosure: Some of these snaps might make you a little loopy—but, hey, sanity’s overrated.

Wednesday 19 February 2014

Anya Hindmarch Heads to the Market

Is that Anya Hindmarch riffling through our kitchen cupboards again? That’s what it felt like at her wildly entertaining Fall ’14 show yesterday. As soon as the crowd took their seats, there were cues to what was coming—namely a bunch of fit male models in ballet shoes. We were then told by PR not to step on the holes in the floor…the plot thickens.

Sure enough, to the tune of a joyous, happy soundtrack, the bags marched out. The first boasted a portrait of Tony the Tiger from the Frosted Flakes box, followed by Cocoa Puffs, The Kellogg’s rooster, and Daz (basically the U.K. version of Tide detergent).

All of this was presented by models on a conveyer belt pushing shopping trolleys. And those trolleys kept getting fuller with handbag goodies: a clutch in a tubular shape of Digestive biscuits, then clutches in colors of the English chocolate Quality Street, with its distinctive, jewel-toned foil wrappers, then the Swan matches every English household has for lighting fireplaces or gas stoves. We’ll never look at a mundane shopping trip the same way again.

Colorfully striped clutches with oversize tassels followed, which balanced the whole look off nicely. Also on offer were scarves, new to the brand, which were printed with smiley faces.

Then it was showtime: The male models suddenly shifted into dance, toeing the line between the floor and the (still moving) conveyor belt against the strains of Judy Garland’s “Get Happy.” Holes in the wall suddenly had trumpets and basses thrust through them—body-less, though, as the “musicians” were on the other side. The final touch? At the last moment, hands…jazz hands popped through the holes in the floor, causing this writer to jump out of her seat. The audience was filled with grins—Anya Hindmarch helped the fash pack find its funny bone. And she created some of the most covetable bags of the season in the process. Relive Hindmarch’s elaborate runway production with the exclusive debut of her Fall ’14 video, above.

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Sunday 16 February 2014

Duro Olowu's New Collection Is a Master Class in Combining Artful Prints

About six stories above the fray of London Fashion Week, in a suite at the Savoy overlooking the Thames, is where you’ll find designer Duro Olowu and his new fall collection. With an audience of no more than a few editors at one time, it’s a very serene and civilized way to enjoy new clothes. (There are frothy cappuccinos and delicious shortbread cookies involved.) After all, the designer’s mastery for mixing print and pattern demands your full attention. “Fabric is the one thing that we all have in common, it’s a universal language,” he says. “You will find denim in Lagos and Tennessee.”

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It’s why there’s silk from storied Swiss fabric house Abraham, and hand-woven textiles from Burkina Faso—all in the space of one look. Olowu traveled to Ouagadougou last year and commissioned local artisans to produce the ikat-like motif that appears on voluminous capes and skirts. There’s no lack of other interesting combinations in the mix, including fantastic forties dresses that come with a fluttering organza trim. “I make each combination in limited quantities,” he says. “So a lot of women come back and buy the same dress with a different collage of patterns.”

Olowu’s inspiration this season started with the lacquered Afro-surrealist works of art decor designer Elizabeth Eyre de Lanux, and one colorful deco-print coat with trompe-l’oeil Mongolian fur pockets is the kind of thing to catch the eye of one of his biggest fans, a certain Mrs. O. “She’ll see my wife Thelma wearing a dress and jokingly say, ‘Why don’t I have this yet?’ ” says the designer of First Lady Michelle Obama. “It’s nice to know that she feels good in my clothes.”

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Tuesday 11 February 2014

London Fashion Week Preview: The New Girl Designers to Watch

News of upcoming London Fashion Week: Designer girl power is breaking out all over. While I was in the middle of making lists all the of new people I want to see, this charming picture arrived to sum it all up: a bunch of Barbies, dressed for the shows in their shiny finery, by the recent Central Saint Martins graduate Sadie Williams.

Ms. Williams has a big-girl capsule of tops going into Selfridges, too. A small step into business, but a delightful one (and Barbie dolls can be found in the store’s toy department, FYI).

More sisters are popping up all around town. On my radar for next weekend are Claire Barrow, Faustine Steinmetz, Yulia Kondranina, Danielle Romeril, and Charlie May—all of them doing things I’m dying to see.

Claire Barrow, who’s been showing with Fashion East for three seasons, is striding out on her own as a new member of the NEWGEN scheme. I want a good look at her hand-painted cowboy boots.

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Danielle Romeril, another NEWGEN-er, is an Irish graduate of the Royal College of Art—a possible follower in the footsteps of her compatriot, Simone Rocha. She says her fourth collection, on display at Somerset House, is inspired by Lenticular prints—those funny 3-D pictures that fascinated us as kids.

Yulia Kondranina, who hails from Moscow, put together such an outstandingly lovely group of lace dresses for spring that I’ll be beating a path to see what she comes up with for fall. She’s showing off-schedule, but judging by what she did last season, this could be her breakout moment.

Faustine Steinmetz graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2011, and she’s working a seam of mind-altering textiles. Steinmetz’s insanely intense handcrafted denims have won her a spot as a guest newcomer at the NEWGEN Somerset House exhibition.

Charlie May has a different take on forging her way into business. She’s a blogger with her own website who interned at Thomas Tait, and then decided to start selling a few of the things she designed online. I’ll be hoofing it over to see what she’s up to at her show at the OXO Tower on Saturday morning.

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Friday 7 February 2014

Langley Fox on Her Multiple Fashion Week Collaborations and What She Has in Common with Her Great-Grandfather, Ernest Hemingway

The idea of running barefoot through fields of sunny daisy-sprigged meadows is about as far removed from the current icy, slushy mess on the streets of New York Fashion Week as you can get, but if Langley Fox’s illustrations are anything to go by, then it doesn’t hurt to dream. “It’s funny, because daisies are actually my favorite flower,” she says of the dainty blossom that Marc Jacobs named a fragrance after. The artist and model has created a series of ten ethereal drawings inspired by the flower for the designer’s new tweet pop-up shop in New York, which opened last night. It’s part of a string of fashion collaborations that Langley has worked on recently: She flew in from Los Angeles last week to help launch the bags she designed with Roman design duo TL-180. Before that, a fantastic collection of illustrated scenes from Ernest Hemingway’s A Moveable Feast for Louis Vuitton. “It was one of the scariest things I’ve ever done,” says Langley, the great-granddaughter of the celebrated author. “I don’t claim to be an expert, I just wanted them to level up to something that could comparably be in his book.”

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Her photorealist graphite drawings certainly evoke the spirit of Hemingway’s era and the fascinating characters that filled his novels. Langley’s father gave her the original manuscript for inspiration, and, retracing the handwritten pages, she brought the story to life. For the record, it just so happens to be her favorite Hemingway book, too. “You really get a sense of this life before he was famous,” she says. “His hunger to succeed and his lust for life.” And while she’s reluctant to draw any artistic parallels, she will say that her great-grandfather shared her love of cats.

As the sister of Dree Hemingway and daughter of model Mariel Hemingway, she’s certainly got a bit of fashion in her blood. As she tells it, though, her own style has little in common with the glamorous ’70s Halston dresses that she saw hung in her mother’s closet. “I got voted Most Unique Style in middle school,” she says. “But I don’t think it was supposed to be a compliment!” Her look then—mismatched striped socks and a Superman shirt with a cape on it—is quite different to the way she dresses now, although once in a while she likes to throw something unexpected into the mix of her cool Los Angles wardrobe. Walking the runway of Marc Jacobs’s show last season dressed in Hawaiian board shorts, slip-ons, and a blonde wig was an exhilarating, if nerve-racking, opportunity for her to switch up her style. “It was definitely stepping out of my comfort zone,” she says. “I’m much more comfortable talking about art than modeling.” She needn’t worry on either count: Her delicate, fantasy-tinged pictures speak for themselves.

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Tuesday 4 February 2014

The Queen is telling Kate Middleton what to wear to Australia

"Subtle but significant regal makeover."

Vanity Fair - via The Mail on Sunday - has reported that the Queen has ignited a "subtle but significant regal makeover" of Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge for her upcoming tour of Australia in order to convey a more royal image.

Vanity Fair have noted that this will be an "upgrade" from her more accessible and high street-level wardrobe. However, some of Middleton's biggest fashion hits have included Alexander McQueen, Roksanda Ilincic and other fashion-forward and decidedly non-high street pieces (with, prices to match surely). Unsurprisingly, several of Middleton's favoured designers such as Alice Temperley and Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen are rumoured to be designing several one-off pieces, including gowns and day dresses.

The Duchess has been advised to wear a wardrobe of day dresses with lower hemlines, and to favour larger jewels and tiaras. Two jewellery pieces under consideration include a diamond and ruby brooch in the form of a hibiscus flower – which was given to the Queen Mother by Australia in 1958; and the Queen's own golden wattle brooch made of yellow and white diamonds, a gift to the Queen on her Coronation Tour in 1954. Middleton's personal hairdresser, Amanda Cook Tucker, has been confirmed to accompany her on her tour so will help securing the tiaras (Princess Mary told us it isn't quite as easy as it looks). Seems she won't need the services of this Australian hairdresser.

The Queen is telling Kate Middleton what to wear to Australia

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The Duchess is expected to require up to four outfit changes per day during the three-and-a-half-week tour. An official aide – the Queen's personal dresser Angela Kelly – will accompany her to assist with her wardrobe. Kelly, who has worked with the Queen since 1993, has designed almost all of the Queen's outfits, and has published a book entitled, Dressing The Queen: The Jubilee Wardrobe.

A source revealed: "Angela has been asked to start selecting jewels ahead of the trip. She knows most of the pieces in the Queen's private collection. Her understanding is crucial because this trip will be about Kate appearing more royal than ever – you can expect to see a lot more tiaras – and the Queen will be watching closely." The Queen has also requested that she add some polish her existing personal style, meaning a move away from sweet, girly dresses to more elegant, sophisticated choices.

Monday 3 February 2014

Kristin Scott Thomas: 'I cannot cope with another film'

Kristin Scott Thomas has had enough. She has been working flat out for 30 years, and made 65 films: having lived in Paris since the age of 19, she effectively has two careers, one in English and one in French. Even her cleaner thinks her workload is insane. Last September, for the first time in her life, she reached a point where she could no longer go on. "I just suddenly thought, I cannot cope with another film," she says. "I realised I've done the things I know how to do so many times in different languages, and I just suddenly thought, I can't do it any more. I'm bored by it. So I'm stopping." Having always been a workaholic, she now likes to think of herself, she jokes, as a "recovering actress".

For the past 15 years, the actor has fashioned a highly respected career out of small parts in biggish English-language films, such as the John Lennon biopic Nowhere Boy, and big parts in smaller French films, such as the prisoner returning home in I've Loved You So Long. But she is tired of working on films whose scripts keep being rewritten at the last minute. "The kinds of films that I do are usually quite rapidly put together, and it always seems to be a little bit of a shambles. I like filming, but what I don't like is having to rearrange things and rewrite scenes. I just can't be bothered."

Kristin Scott Thomas

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She is tired, too, of being cast in films that need her more than she needs them. "I'm often asked to do something because I'm going to be a sort of weight to their otherwise flimsy production. They need me for production purposes, basically. So they give me a little role in something where they know I'm going to be able to turn up, know what to do, cry in the right place. I shouldn't bite the hand that feeds, but I keep doing these things for other people, and last year I just decided life's too short. I don't want to do it any more."

This is the second time Scott Thomas has decided to walk away from work that many actors would kill for. The first was in the late 1990s, when the success of Four Weddings And A Funeral had catapulted her into Hollywood A-list roles in The Horse Whisperer, Mission: Impossible andThe English Patient. "But it was geographically unfriendly, because I just didn't want to go to America." She was married to a Frenchman, had two young children, and the family wanted to live in France or, at the very least, Europe.

But it wasn't just about that. "No, it's also that I can't bear all the kind of rubbish that goes on on those big films. I just can't stand sitting around for hours in a great big luxury trailer, waiting, bored out of my head. I used to do," she offers drily, "a lot of tapestry. Yes, I had a lot of cushions around."

She did have one minor relapse five years ago when she appeared in the airhead comedy Confessions Of A Shopaholic, but at its mention her face freezes in a pantomime of horror. "I thought it would be quite good fun. But I spent my entire time waiting. I hated it, hated it, hated it, and I said that I wouldn't do another one." Grinning, she adds, "Funnily enough, I haven't been asked to."

Actors are seldom this candid. It is an unwritten rule of the profession to speak highly of every film you've ever been involved in – but then, Scott Thomas has always been a singular sort of film star. Very few British actors work in a foreign language, for a start, and when she arrives at the studio in Paris where we meet, she's so out of the habit of speaking English that she keeps beginning sentences in French. She is makeup-free and wearing glasses which, she says, are very useful for deflecting attention: "Because people don't think, oh, who's that old woman with the round glasses?"

There is no publicist in attendance, and she submits to the attentions of the hairstylist and makeup artist without fuss. She has the sort of informality that comes from having done this many times before, and talks freely without appearing to wonder or worry about how she might sound in print. At 53, she is more preoccupied by how she looks.

Scott Thomas is mesmerisingly beautiful, but she refers to herself as an "ageing actress" and keeps saying, "I'm terribly old" or, "I'm positively ancient." In fact, being ancient might make things slightly easier, for she adds, "I'm sort of, as the French would say, 'stuck between two chairs', because I'm no longer 40 and sort of a seductress, and I'm not yet a granny." She got a terrible shock a few years ago when a close-up portrait taken for this newspaper was reprinted in a glossy magazine, without being digitally retouched. "It was a really great picture, and looked fine on a grainy piece of paper in black-and-white," she says now. "But on the gloss of a magazine cover, without being retouched, it was the most terrifying thing. It really brought home to me how the images of women we see are so manipulated." Accustomed these days to seeing faces digitally perfected, anyone who saw the magazine would, she groans, have thought: "My God, Kristin Scott Thomas, she's so ancient!"

As a middle-aged woman, she finds herself increasingly overlooked in everyday life, and has talked a lot in recent years about the unnerving experience of becoming invisible. So it's ironic that her latest film is calledThe Invisible Woman (the title actually refers to its young heroine, Charles Dickens' secret mistress, Nelly Ternan). It is a screen adaptation of Claire Tomalin's biography of the 18-year-old actress, who captured Dickens' heart when he was a married father of nine and more than twice her age. Felicity Jones plays Ternan and Scott Thomas plays her widowed mother Catherine, who oversees the affair with worldly maternal anxiety, part Victorian chaperone and part pragmatic pimp.

It is a slow-paced but beautifully shot and absorbing film. For Scott Thomas, its principal appeal was the chance to work again with Ralph Fiennes, who plays Dickens and also directed the film. Like her, he puts in an electrifying performance – which is all the more remarkable given that he appears on screen in almost every scene and has previously directed just one film. "It's a brilliant performance," she says, "and it was so lovely to work with him again. But it wasn't just that. There was something about playing a woman who has to make decisions about her child and evaluate her child's chances, and I found that very moving, the responsibility of the mother of this daughter. I just wanted to do it."

The only downsides were the corsets and petticoats and bustles. Her waist had to be drawn so tightly that she was physically sick, while the petticoats were so heavy that her arms would ache just to lift them. "I didn't want to wear the wigs and I didn't want to wear the costumes. I don't know how those women did it," she marvels coolly.

Wardrobe discomfort notwithstanding, however, period dramas often seem to provide the most substantial roles for older actresses, raising the disquieting thought that perhaps older women were accorded greater status in Victorian times than they are today. "I don't know," she ponders. "It's an interesting thought. Is it to do with our mania for youth, our kind of addiction to youth?" Then again, she points out, The Invisible Woman is a tale of a 45-year-old man leaving his wife of 22 years in 1858 for a woman not even half his age, so perhaps then and now are not so different after all. If anything, the parallels between the two eras are "more or less literally dramatised by the film – by the fact that Ray is getting to jump into bed with the lovely Felicity Jones". In The English Patient, Fiennes and Scott Thomas played lovers; 18 years later, the 51-year-old actor's love interest is an actress 21 years his junior, while Scott Thomas must play her mother.

I tell her that, for me, the film's most compelling characters are all middle-aged. Alongside Fiennes she co-stars with the magnificent Joanna Scanlan and Tom Hollander, and it's they who bring the screen alive. "Well," she nods, "I don't want to go and see a film about young people. I'm just not remotely interested. When I go to the movies, I'd rather watch people who've lived, who have gone through the mill, who've had their heart broken a million times and are still looking for love. That's what's interesting to me."

She thinks the film industry might just be starting to realise there is a market for films about older people. The population is ageing, for a start – "So they've got to make something to entertain us" – and films now have a commercial lifespan far beyond box-office receipts, making teenagers' dominance of cinema seats less important. "I just think there really need to be stories about people who have been through life and are still hopeful."

She is encouraged by the success of The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, and by the rumours of a sequel. Even the recent return to TV of Birds Of A Feather is good news, she thinks, its female stars now being in their 50s and 60s. What about Downton Abbey, I ask. Scott Thomas's great heroine, Maggie Smith, is flourishing in the drama at 79, and so is Shirley MacLaine. Scott Thomas starred in Downton creator Julian Fellowes' first feature film, Gosford Park – another country-house period drama – so I ask if she could see herself joining the cast. She shakes her head.

"I can't do miniseries. Once you've got the characters, once you know who they are, they're going to repeat themselves, aren't they, for the next five years? It just goes on and on and on. I get terribly bored. Series bore me."

She is also rather weary of being typecast, playing quiet despair and heartbreak with the particular strain of dignity first showcased in Four Weddings. Scott Thomas hasn't had to audition for a part in years, but as a consequence gets "asked to do the same things over and over, because people know you can do that, so they want you to do that. But I just don't want to pretend to be unhappy any more – and it is mostly unhappy."

I suspect she is cast in unhappy roles because she has a gift for looking so compellingly beautiful when miserable. "Thank you very much, I'll try and make the most of that," she jokes. She has another theory: "Although I don't really think of myself as a sad person, there has been a lot of sadness. I've known a lot of sadness; I know what it's like to be sad. So I guess I have access to that, and can tap into it."

Kristin Scott Thomas: Gosford Park

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Scott Thomas was born in Cornwall in 1960, the eldest of five, to a former drama student mother and Royal Navy pilot father who died in a flying accident when she was five. Her mother married another pilot, who died in an almost identical accident when Scott Thomas was just 11. She was sent to a girls' boarding school, before enrolling at drama school in London, where she was told she would never make the grade and so decamped to Paris to be an au pair. There she studied drama again and was spotted by, of all people, Prince, who promptly cast her as his love interest in his vanity project Under The Cherry Moon. She was, critics agreed, the only decent thing in it, and has been working more or less nonstop ever since.

But, by her own account, she was not a happy young woman, and spent several years in analysis. She has been free of depression for years now, and comes across as conspicuously at ease with herself: grounded, good-natured and unflappable. Her comments about all the things she no longer likes about her film career may make her come across in print as rather grumpy, but her critique seems to derive from a newfound sense of liberation and self-belief. She is no longer the guarded, rather remote character who – as she herself says – invariably used to attract freezing water-based metaphors. In recent years, interviewers have remarked on how much she has thawed, and it would be easy to assume this has something to do with her 2006 divorce. In fact, she says, it was her rediscovery of theatre just over a decade ago that transformed how she felt about herself and her work.

In 2001, she played the title role in Bérénice on stage in France, having not been on stage for more than 15 years. It was a revelation. "I suddenly felt independent. You could walk on stage and you could stand on your head if you really wanted to. No one's going to say stop, don't do that, that's a ridiculous idea. There's this feeling of independence and trust – I could give myself permission to play things in a certain way and see if they worked or they didn't. I could trust myself."

The trouble with acting in films, she goes on, is that "you're constantly being told what to do. 'Move your head that way. Can you cry a bit more? Can you do this, can you do that? Oh, that was lovely, that was amazing, that was beautiful.' And sometimes you think, that wasn't amazing and wonderful and beautiful, it was just a look. But you've got this person saying it was. And then it's taken away from you, and it's all mixed up and made into something else. Basically, when you are acting in a film, you're giving the director the raw material to make the film. But when you're acting on stage, that's it. And that's when you discover that you can really do it. It's this word 'trust' that keeps coming to me. It's not a question of whether one person is conning you into thinking you can do it, saying, 'Oh, it was beautiful.' On stage, if it works, it works."

If Scott Thomas used to come across as somewhat aloof, she thinks this had a lot to do with her own ambivalence about her acting, and self-disdain for the narcissism of a career spent chiefly sitting around in trailers, waiting to be told what to do by a director. Since Bérénice she has starred in five West End plays, including two Chekhovs and twoPinters, won an Olivier award for best actress, and every time she talks about being on stage, her face lights up with excitement.

She says she will still make some films, but only those she absolutely can't resist. For the first time since her 20s, she is getting accustomed to the novelty of choice, for her daughter and eldest son are now in their 20s themselves, and her youngest son is 13, so the financial pressure of supporting her family is beginning to ease. She met her former husband, a gynaecologist, when she was at drama school, but since their marriage ended she has been facing a new freedom she's still not entirely sure what to do with. "I'm starting to think, hang on a minute, soon my youngest is going to go off and do whatever he's going to do. But this is what's quite fun about being me at the moment – making one's own choices, for reasons of one's own, and not trying to please a career person, or make money. I guess that's a sign of maturity, I think."

She and her ex-husband share joint custody of their youngest son, and although that makes life "much more complicated – you have to make appointments to talk to the father of your child, which is a bore", relations are amicable. "I know for so many people it hasn't turned out right, and they can't get the other partner to engage, and that sounds like hell. But I've been very, very lucky. Married the right man, had babies with the right man." She grins cheerfully. She does feel lonely sometimes: "But I think everybody does sometimes. I used to feel lonely when I was married and had three children, you know." The worst times are August, when Paris decamps en masse for the summer holiday. "Everyone's gone, you're on your own, and it's agony. You're trying to book a hotel, but you can't because the hotels are all full of these fucking families!" She laughs.

But the biggest challenge is deciding where she should even be. She has often said she feels more French than English, so I'm surprised to hear her say she is seriously thinking of returning to the UK in the not too distant future. Her adopted country appears to be, she says sadly, in terminal decline. "I think so. Everyone says it is, and it's quite believable. Five years ago, I would have said great schools, great education, great transport, trains are wonderful, roads are great, all that kind of thing – great, great, great. You can't really say that any more. And at the moment I'm really worried about the rise of antisemitism in France, which is just really unbelievable." Someone, she says, has got to stop National Front leader Marine le Pen.

Then again, she confesses, she doesn't actually vote, because she has never got round to getting a French passport. "It's about split personalities – it's about my life already being complicated enough. I'm splitting into a million pieces with this job I do, and I feel like I live in two countries, so having two nationalities as well feels too much. But I feel flaky not voting, I'm sort of ashamed of it."

What does she make of the revelations about François Hollande's private life? "Oh, I would really prefer not to know. In France, we are all shocked that the press has been so invasive, because there is a very strong – and I think quite right – belief that a private life should be private. But where I come a cropper is with this 'first girlfriend' business. I'm rather old-fashioned. This idea of being first girlfriend," she says, beginning to laugh, "is just bollocks to me."