By Terry combines science and glamour

Terry de Gunzburg, touted as the guru of colour, is still raring to go.

IT WAS a product that revolutionised the beauty industry when it was launched in 1991. But Yves Saint Laurent’s Touche Éclat – the brush-on concealer-highlighter coveted by celebrities and make-up artists the world over – would not have existed without French woman Terry de Gunzburg.

Born in a family of scientists, de Gunzburg loved to innovate and “wanted a bespoke house of colour that was very extravagant, completely free with no limits for creativity and luxury”. She launched By Terry in 1998, her own uber lavish make-up and skincare brand.

Two years later, de Gunzburg ended her 15-year stint as the international marketing and creative director of YSL Beauté to forge her own path. The story goes that she took Touche Éclat’s original formula with her, so YSL had to come up with a slightly different version of the product.

By Terry’s Touche Veloutee has been hailed as the holy grail of concealers, coveted for its ability to reanimate tired faces and sculpt a catwalk-worthy bone structure – no Photoshop needed.

Highly sophisticated and incredibly user-friendly, it combines “the purest, most precious pigments with light diffusing technology and ultra precise textures in the most luxurious formulations”.

“From YSL, I learned not only the essence of how to anticipate women’s needs, but how to create unexpected textures and formulas,” said de Gunzburg in an interview with Wall Street Journal early this year.

By Terry’s Baume de Rose, a nourishing lip balm, also gained overnight success among Parisian models and Hollywood actresses when it was launched in 2003.

“I like when science has a huge part in glamour and femininity. It has to have sensible science behind it, but a mascara or lipstick must always be a pleasure to use,” she was quoted as saying in The Formula, a beauty blog.

Now By Terry is in Malaysia, thanks to Kens Apothecary, the same company which brought in Aesop, Annick Goutal, Diptyque and other cult labels. de Gunzburg’s lofty presence was noticeably absent at the brand’s recent launch, but in her place was the affable, platinum-haired Sophie Kilian, another accomplished French make-up artist who has worked with a number of European celebrities and royals. Having freelanced for By Terry for the past three years, Kilian has adopted de Gunzburg’s “less is more” philosophy as her own.

“By Terry personifies French simplicity and elegance. The focus is always on the complexion and using minimal products to achieve a flawless face,” says Kilian, who adds that the skin-loving properties in each and every By Terry product set it apart from other cosmetic labels.

“Touche Éclat is just water and pigments; Touche Veloutee, on the other hand, helps you achieve more luminous, moisturised skin upon each application.”

According to Kilian, many women make the mistake of piling too much make-up on during the day, especially heavy foundation.

This new minimalism is what de Gunzburg has once described to the New York Times as “the colourless make-up, no-foundation foundation” trend. Although the look appears effortless, Kilian pointed out that, in fact, it requires a certain amount of work. But de Gunzburg has come up with the perfect solution, and one that most Malaysian women might appreciate: the Sheer Expert foundation. It’s sheer and lightweight, perfect for our hot, sticky weather.

For those who are into trends, take note: Kilian says brows are big this season. The brow mascara from By Terry’s Autumn 2013 Graphism Collection contains a tinted gel brush that structures the eyebrows, intensifies their colour and fills in gaps.

Meanwhile, Kilian, who has met de Gunzburg a grand total of four times because “she is always in the laboratory in France”, says her employer is a woman with a strong character. She related an incident in which de Gunzburg was searching for the scent of her new fragrance, Parti-Pris.

“She sniffed over 500 scents before she came upon the smell of tuberose. It’s not a very popular scent, but it didn’t matter as long as she loved it. It is her Parti-Pris and no one will change it. That’s Terry for you.”

But de Gunzburg had, for the longest time, yearned for a high-end, finely tuned fragrance collection based on quality, creativity and pure essences.

“My grandmother and mother were obsessed with French haute parfumerie,” she said to Harrods Magazine. “Growing up with that, it was natural to me to refuse an opportunistic, marketing-driven launch.”

And after last year’s successful introduction of her fragrance series, she’s all ready to launch the next batch, this time, an Oriental scent called Terrific Oud, out soon in 2014.

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Competition winner flaunts her curves

Having curves and being proud of it has scored a young Auckland woman the biggest gig of her life.

Daryl Thompson, 23, has been named the overall New Zealand winner in the City Chic United Curves International Model Search competition.

Miss Thompson was among 100 hopefuls who turned out from around the country to take part in the competition, which was held over three days in Auckland City.

Ten women were chosen to take part in a professional photo shoot yesterday and the group was later brought down to the final five contestants.

Miss Thompson grew up in Papakura, South Auckland, and is a former student at Rosehill College.

She works as a procurement officer at Sky TV.

Last night she was still coming to terms with the win.

"It's still setting in, I think. I called my mum and she had a cry over the phone. I'm just trying to understand it."

She heard about the competition two weeks ago while driving to work and decided to give it a go.

She asked a couple of friends to join her, but they pulled out at the last minute.

At a healthy size 16, Miss Thompson said she loved the way she looked and wanted to do something that would encourage other plus-sized women to feel the same.

"Just because you have a little bulge here or there, it doesn't mean you're not beautiful. People think that because you're curvy, you're fat. I've had people say to me: 'You need to lose weight'.

"But I don't think I do. I feel comfortable, so take it or leave it. I kind of have to rock what I got," she laughed.

Another key reason for wanting to take part in the competition was the idea that bigger women would be more motivated to buy clothes from someone they could relate to.

"I feel really good about my body and I kept thinking: 'Plus-sized girls are not going to buy clothes from a skinny girl'.

"Coming from South Auckland, there are a lot of big girls from South Auckland. I kind of feel like I'm representing them and that's cool."

Miss Thompson will travel to Sydney to take part in another model photo shoot with City Chic and wins a full City Chic wardrobe.

Women from all kinds of backgrounds - European, Pacific Island and Maori, African, Asian and Indian - turned up, following a call from organisers who wanted to "truly represent the global village".

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Protection for child models

NEW York has passed into law tough new rules governing how child models can work, hailed by campaigners this week as a step towards ending rampant exploitation.

The legislation, signed by New York Governor Andrew Cuomo late Monday, gives models under the age of 18 the same labour protections as child performers.

It is likely to have a significant impact on casting for catwalk shows and magazine shoots in New York, one of the most iconic fashion capitals of the world.

In an industry that lionises youth and rail-thin figures as the beauty ideal, top models can be scouted at a young age for rigorous international careers.

The new law is the latest attempt to inject regulation into an industry that has courted controversy for eating disorders, racism and sexual harassment.

The bill, which warned that child models are frequently exposed to sexual harassment and lacked financial and education protection, will take effect in 30 days.

The Council of Fashion Designers of America said the changes would greatly impact the casting of models for New York Fashion Week in February.

The legislation limits young models’ working hours and stipulates they should leave before midnight on a school night or at 12.30am on weekends.

Designers have to ensure 15% of the model’s fee is funnelled into a trust account until he or she is 18.

If they miss three or more consecutive days of school, they must also be provided a tutor.

Models under 16 must also be provided a chaperone and a nurse with paediatric experience should be on hand.

Employers or guardians who break the rules will face fines of between US$1,000 (about RM3,000) and US$3,000 (about RM9,000).

New York State senators Diane Savino and Jeff Klein, and state assemblyman Steven Otis who sponsored the bill, welcomed the new law.

“We have brought an end to the rampant exploitation and sexual abuse of child models by giving child models the critical protections,” Savino told a news conference.

Model and actress Milla Jovovich, who was scouted at the age of 11, was among those who spoke out.

“It seems incredible that young kids in the modelling industry haven’t had equal rights to other child performers until now,” she said in a statement on Tuesday.

Canadian fashion model Coco Rocha, who also started her career as a child, said she “could not be happier”.

It comes after fashion bible Vogue agreed in May 2012 to no longer use models younger than 16 or those “who appear to have an eating disorder” in its magazine.

The flagship US edition and Paris Vogue, which touched off a furore in 2010 with a photo spread featuring a 10-year-old girl, were among those who agreed to the pact.

Last month, supermodels Iman and Naomi Campbell, two of the most famous faces in the fashion world, also launched a blistering attack on fashion houses, accusing them of racism over the lack of black models.

Concern that the fashion industry fuels anorexia among young models and girls across the Western world also reached new heights after recent model deaths.

Frenchwoman Isabelle Caro, who at just 32kg featured in anti-anorexia ads, died in 2010 after being in hospital with acute respiratory disease.

In 2006, Brazilian model Ana Carolina Reston died at 21 weighing less than 40kg, and Uruguayan model Luisel Ramos died of heart failure aged 22.

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The domino effect

Cutting-edge skincare technology has resulted in a system that can trigger a chain reaction towards youthful changes.

IT’S a nice idea, turning back the clock so that we can remain young. Or better yet, have time stand still so that we don’t age. But unless there’s some miracle treatment out there we don’t know about, it’s never going to happen.

Nonetheless, the beauty industry continues to strive and work against time, so that we get the Dorian Gray effect. Celebrities seem to have a better handle on ageing in that respect, but not everyone has the money to splurge on plastic surgery, Botox or fillers, or want to go down that path at all.

Of course, it’s not all due to a nip-and-tuck, as there are those who make it a point to lead a healthy life and exercise regularly. And then, there’s also the occasional secret skincare product that does the trick.

In what would seem to be the antithesis of building blocks, Swiss line’s cutting-edge research and development has come up with a system that is claimed to trigger a domino effect in knocking down signs of ageing.

The scientists at Swiss line have referred this revolutionary research achievement as the “alter ego” for anti-ageing.

Children know well what the game domino is all about. It’s knocking down a chip, which falls on another chip, hence creating a chain reaction.

In skincare, this domino effect describes a small change which can cause an effect in linear sequence. Scientists have developed this latest approach to effectuate a domino effect which ultimately leads to changes in the skin, heralding a new era in molecular skincare.

The new Swiss line Cell Shock Age Intelligence Youth-Inducing System has combined a complex series of potent ingredients (Cellactel 2 Complex, Madecassoside, molecules from an algae, cultured stem cells from a coffee plant, collagen promoting peptides and retinol, among others) to act as “dominoes”. These work harmoniously to “knock down the first warning signs of ageing” to create a visible and youth-inducing effect.

According to Laura Nicholson, Swiss line international training manager, the new multi-tasking moisturisers tackle four age markers: firmness loss, deep wrinkles, pigmentation spots and uneven pores.

The Youth Inducing system comprises a Cell Shock Age Intelligence Youth-Inducing Cream and a Cell Shock Age Intelligence PM-Repair Lotion.

An all-in-one moisturiser for day and night meant to address the problems of mature skin, the cream is said to transform the skin’s inner architecture to overcome the signs of ageing and restore the complexion’s luminosity and uniformity.

The key actives are Cellactel 2 Complex, for lifting and anti-wrinkle efficacy, and Madecassoside, to protect the skin from inflammatory daily stress by reducing the release of pro-inflammatory epidermal messengers.

What’s new, explains Nicholson who was in Kuala Lumpur for the launch, is the Rab27a molecule, that’s based on the understanding that certain molecules can trigger or block cellular cascades, and alter metabolic paths.

An active isolated fraction obtained from the red algae, Palmaria palmata from the northern coasts of the Atlantic Ocean, mostly in Iceland and Greenland, it opens an entirely new path to pigmentation control therapy, fighting UV-induced pigmentation and counteracting age spots.

There’s also Stem Cell Pulse, obtained from a stem cell culture of Psilanthus bengalensis (Coffea bengalensis), an unusual type of coffee without caffeine.

It plumps the skin and fills wrinkles by boosting collagen production in the dermis. She adds that it serves to restructure the tissue by boosting the formation of adipocytes and simultaneously decreasing the enzymatic breakdown of lipids.

And then, Polypeptide Arginne-Lysine (dual amino-acid based polypeptide) provides a targeted “surgical” dermis extracellular-matrix action that results in an anti-wrinkle effect while elastomer (complex polymer) refines pores and softens fine lines.

The lotion is touted to be a high-performance night time pre-lotion which repairs metabolism and maximises the cream’s action during the night. Apart from Cellactel 2 Complex, the key ingredient is Retinol Cyclo Complex that encourages cell turnover and exfoliation. Used in combination with retinol, there’s also panthenol that contributes to skin renewal, while preventing skin irritation.

Meant to replace a toning lotion, the booster should be applied at night only before the cream.

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Katy Perry Goes From Sweet To Sexy In London

Katy Perry, 28, looks like she’s having a great time while in London. The star was seen out and about with boyfriend, John Mayer, and pal, Anna Kendrick, on Oct. 20, where the star opted for a fun get-up for her night out. Katy chose to rock a sexy look that included a black satin corset, shiny skirt, and thigh-high boots. The singer styled her look with red lips and her signature shiny, black curls — but that wasn’t the only get-up we saw on the star while she enjoyed herself across the pond!

Katy Perry’s London Dinner With John Mayer — Details On Her Dress:

Just a few days earlier on Oct. 18, Katy was seen sporting a completely different get-up. She looked sweet and chic in a pink Dolce & Gabbana dress that covered her a lot more than the corset and skirt. The conservative ensemble featured a much higher neckline than her black corset and the sleeves fell just above Katy’s elbow. The singer styled her look with a pair of retro-looking purple velvet pumps, a white leather handbag, and shiny, straight locks — and Katy looked amazing in this ensemble. She’s confident enough to pull off the boxy silhouette, and the color of this dress compliments her skin tone much better than her other ensemble. Even her fuchsia lips and purple shoes work in this look!

While we commend Katy for switching up her style, her sexy look almost looked like a costume. Sure, she’s loving the sexy schoolgirl look lately, but we’re a bit bored of it on the star. The fabric on the corset and skirt was ill-fitting and her gold necklace is an awkward size for the strapless top. All of the black also seems to make her fair skin look more pale, washing her out from her usual creamy complexion.

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A-plus skin

There are women out there who know what adenosine is. They can talk as knowledgeably about alkyloamides as they can aloe vera. But they don't come to dinner at my place.

My friends are more likely to think of "Eureka!" moments than exfoliants if they see the letters AHA. And this is the way it should be. You want your moisturiser to be effective; gaining a BSc in order to understand how it works is above and beyond the call of beauty.

Science-based skincare rarely comes cheap. You can expect to pay $100-plus for an anti-ageing serum from a brand

that considers itself to be entry-level prestige. True prestige can cost upwards of $300.

Price is certainly not the only indicator of efficacy - great products exist at both ends of the price spectrum. But, generally, cost is influenced by the quality of ingredients, access to the latest technological advances and the feel-good factor luxury brands promote so well.

It is also determined by the wonder-workers, those glittering ingredients Their worth can, and always will, Photographs: 123RF, supplied that promise to make old skin new again.

Potent antioxidants, peptides, real pearls - the list of expensive miracle ingredients is extensive. be debated. But there is an antioxidant that can seriously claim gold-standard status.

It isn't new, it isn't sexy, but it's still a superstar. It's called retinol, or vitamin A.

First introduced into skincare 40 or so years ago under the brand name Retin-A, retinol is the name of the type of vitamin A commonly used in over-the-counter anti-ageing products.

Gentler than retinoic acid (found in prescription skincare) but gruntier than the pro-retinols (retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl linoleate), retinol is one of the world's best-researched skincare ingredients.

Why? Because it works.

When retinol is applied to the skin, it breaks down into retinoic acid, a compound that can interrupt the free-radical chain of events that causes skin to wrinkle. Known as a cell-communicating ingredient, it will join up with almost any skin cell and start instructing it to behave like a healthy, young one.

This bossy behaviour is exactly what we want; healthy cells don't give in to wrinkles, blotches and sagginess.

BUT WON'T RETINOIDS MAKE MY SKIN MORE SENSITIVE TO THE SUN?

For years, topical retinoids were thought to increase the skin's vulnerability to UVs. But while the ingredient itself is sensitive to sunlight - it degrades when exposed to light - it won't make you more prone to burn.

The redness experienced by some when out in the sun is likely to be related to heat exposure. And, in fact, newish

research shows that when combined with UV exposure, retinoids may actually prevent the rise of collagenase

(the enzyme that breaks down collagen), stopping photo-ageing before it starts.

Regardless, always wear a sunscreen with an SPF30 or greater when out in the sun.

WILL RETINOL MAKE ME ALL RED AND FLUSHED?

Those familiar with vitamin A products know that they can make your skin slightly flushed and drier than usual.

This usually goes away after two to three weeks. If you are worried you can ease into it, applying a retinol cream every second or third night for three weeks.

This should calm any symptoms and allow your skin cells to adapt to the retinoic acid. If it's still irritated after three weeks, either discontinue or switch to a gentler product. Most people can tolerate retinol but a few can't - those with super sensitive or rosacea-prone skin, for example. It is also unwise to use vitamin A if you are pregnant or breast-feeding.

HOW LONG WILL IT TAKE UNTIL I SEE RESULTS?

Months. As much as we might like immediate gratification when it comes to wrinkles, few skin care products deliver instantly. What you are looking for are benefits that start deep within the skin - at a cellular level - and it takes time for those benefits to show.

You may notice a difference sooner - and many off-the-shelf products do claim noticeable results in weeks - but you will be one of the lucky ones.

CAN I USE A RETINOID TWICE A DAY AND AROUND MY EYES?

It does depend a little on how your skin tolerates the amount, or strength, of retinol in your product. Generally, apply retinol once a day, and it can be used on the neck and around the eye area. (If retinol gets in your eyes it will sting but won't cause damage.) It's also often recommended that retinoids be applied to dry skin to maximise potency, but

efficacy is related to how your skin responds to it.

It mainly comes down to your own personal chemistry and how good you are at converting retinol into retinoic acid.

CAN'T I JUST USE AN EXFOLIATOR?

You can - and some of the results will be the same. An exfoliant will polish the skin and make it glow. Over time, retinol will also make the skin look fresher and younger and will help control blemishes. But they aren't exactly the same thing. A good exfoliator will remove dead skin cells and stimulate skin turnover, whereas retinol actually affects or regulates the healthy behaviour of living cells.

There is also evidence that combining retinol with an AHA exfoliant significantly improves its effectiveness.

IS RETINOL THE BEST ANTI-AGEING INGREDIENT?

It isn't all you need. When it comes to skincare, there's no one all-encompassing uber agent. But combined with a good cleanser, a gentle exfoliant and a moisturising serum or cream loaded with antioxidants, it certainly is one

of your best shots at making your skin look younger.

Skin-saving foundation secrets

This season when your skin is working towards a healthy glow, one of the best brightening tools in your makeup arsenal isn't some fancy-named new discovery. No, it's foundation.

This beauty staple can combat anything from dry, flaky skin to a still-sallow complexion, just with a few quick changes to your regular routine. Find out how to make foundation your changing-seasons secret weapon when you read more.

If your skin feels dry: You may have already switched to a lighter foundation for spring, but are you allowing your moisturiser to work to the best of its ability? "Even if you've had moisturiser on all day, once you're ready to put on your foundation, I suggest putting on more moisturiser and waiting three to five minutes for that to set in," says celebrity makeup artist Lusine Galadjian. "Then the foundation goes on a lot smoother and blends in with your skin. If you don't do that, it can look blotchy like it's sitting on top of the skin instead of blending with the skin."

If your foundation seems chalky: Skin can look slightly sallow before we've gotten enough SPF-protected summer sun, so if your foundation has your skin looking greige or ashy, use less. "Mix it with a little bit of moisturiser," Galadjian recommends. "Just put it in the T-zone where you really need it, because if you put it all over the whole face will look chalky." Another way to warm up the complexion is to add bronzer on your cheekbones and along the sides of the face.

If your neck is too light: Although the neck is already lighter naturally, you'll want to avoid the floating head scenario. Blend foundation down the neck, then strategically apply bronzer to contour. Sweep the shade underneath the jawline and up the sides of the neck for added definition.

Out to Lunch with Giancarlo Giammetti

Giancarlo Giammetti—for 45 years the power behind the Valentino fashion empire, alongside Valentino Garavani—was unavoidably delayed cruising round the Aegean when I arrived for lunch at his penthouse in Manhattan, which is one of his five homes. But thanks to the wonders of Skype, we enjoyed our lunch together just the same.
“Can you hear me, John?” he asked, inaugurating my first “Out to Skype” from Valentino’s yacht midst windy seas.
“I can hear you,” I said. “How’re you doing, Giancarlo?”
“I don’t see you very well, John.”
He is a man known to leave nothing to chance, however. A computer expert fixed the picture on my end, while no less than three lovely ladies and his housekeeper fussed over me as a selection of William Poll gourmet sandwiches was placed before me, along with cherries, blackberries, chocolates, and a choice of wine.
Mr. Giammetti, strikingly handsome, tanned, and poised, was having a late lunch on the yacht,T.M. Blue One (which has a staff of 11), and he sweetly held up his plate so that I could see it clearly—shrimp salad and a glass of Brunello di Montalcino. He was sailing, he told me, with Valentino and members of their extended family, whom he calls “the tribe.”
Valentino: The Last Emperor, directed by Matt Tyrnauer (a contributing editor at this magazine), presents a remarkable backstage view of their rarefied world, but until I read Mr. Giammetti’s memoir, Private (published by Assouline this month), I hadn’t realized that he and Valentino had stopped being lovers more than 40 years ago. “You became inseparable blood brothers?” I asked.
“I was just 30 when the physical part of our relationship ended, and it was difficult in the beginning,” he explained. “We had to solve problems with jealousy. But we’re all grown up—very grown up—and we know that time solves every problem. We’ve always wanted to be the best for the other. But, you know, from the beginning Valentino and I never lived together.”
“That’s probably why your love for each other lasted.”
“Exactly! We want our freedom. We want to be able to close our doors.”
Giancarlo Giammetti is a man of natural charm whose English has improved over the years. When he first met the supermodel Jerry Hall in Rome (before she married Mick Jagger), she told him that she came from Texas, where she was a cowgirl—which he heard as “call girl.” “I was really shocked,” he explained, starting to laugh. “So I very shyly ask whether she arranged to meet her clients by phone or in person. She say, ‘What clients?’ I say, ‘You say you are a call girl.’ And she say, ‘No, no, no! I am a cowgirl!’ We became great friends.”
In the 1980s, Valentino was among the first fashion houses to license merchandise in Japan. “I can’t resist mentioning this,” I said. “How could such an elegant label as yours sell Valentino toilet seats?”
“Just one word,” he replied. “Money.”
“Were they hard to design?” I asked.
He laughed again. “No, I will say that.”
The licensing deals Mr. Giammetti made in Japan were worth many millions. “But the toilet seat didn’t destroy the name of Valentino,” he added.
Merchandise sales subsidize the haute couture collections, just as museum stores help support the art. But are fashionable clothes—rather than accessories and fragrances—the point any longer in what Giancarlo calls “a corporate game run by luxury titans”?
“It’s true the hot company is the accessories company—but a label like Louis Vuitton is still very important in fashion. And 60 to 65 percent of the profits of Valentino, owned today by the Qatar royal family, still come from the clothes. So I think the combination can exist.”
“But, amidst the ruling conglomerates like LVMH,” I suggested, “only a handful of independent fashion houses like Armani or Ralph Lauren still survive. We can no longer be certain who the designers actually are.”
“Yes, but I think women no longer need designers to decide what they want to wear! Before, they were waiting for Givenchy, Dior, or Valentino to decide the dress, the shoes, the bag, for them. But if they like the dress, they like the dress! I think it’s a good thing. It gives women a lot of freedom.”
“What ever happened to style?” I asked, reminding him of red-carpet disasters and hobo-chic celebs dressing democratically, unglamorously down.
“It’s a different style,” he responded, “and it’s a different—how you say?—moment. You cannot fight it. One of the biggest changes in today’s fashion is the influence of stylists. There used to be much more involvement when a star chose a dress. But today’s superstars and celebrities are offered so many clothes to wear, they’re spoiled. There’s no commitment involved, no work, no fittings. They wear the dress and it has a short life. They don’t have time to love a dress.”
And so my “Out to Skype” with Giancarlo Giammetti came to a close. “Thanks so much for lunch,” I said. “I hope you enjoy the rest of your cruise.”
“Nice talking to you, John. Bye-bye.”
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On your marks

Marks & Spencer is the quintessential British retailer; a one-stop shop loved by all ages, outfitting everyone from baby to grandad and furnishing the entire house, even the contents of the fridge (albeit at a price). It’s safe to say the retailer holds a very special place at the heart of the great British high street. It feels especially appropriate that it should launch a collection in which every element from design board to sewing machine has been made in Britain.

The new range is composed of offerings for both men and women, timelessness and heritage design being the focus. “The idea for the Best of British menswear collection was born from the M&S archive, based in Leeds,” Tony O’Connor, head of design for the menswear collection, says. “The archive contains hundreds of pieces from throughout the decades; naturally it was the perfect starting point for a collection synonymous with British heritage and design.”

The once-booming British textile industry has seen a decline thanks to the economic efficiency of out-sourcing to manufacturers abroad, but these collections have allowed the brand to turn back to home-grown talents. The knitwear company Hawick, based in the Scottish borders, tailoring experts Cheshire Bespoke and outerwear specialist Cooper and Stollbrand are just some of the long-established manufacturers who were involved in creating these pieces.

It’s not just British manufacturing that makes the collections stand apart from the other offerings on the store’s rails; the real selling point is its positioning at the premium end of the high-street spectrum. The considered design, superior fabrics and techniques used all hike up the quality to a level we traditionally associate with the label “Made in Britain”. Of course, this means the range comes with a higher-than-high-street price tag. Some thrifty customers may balk at an £800 suit; equivalent English tailoring at a designer store, however, would come with an extra zero.

The womenswear range sticks close to the heritage theme, but adds an edge. “There’s also a distinct androgynous feel, with several pieces very much influenced by masculine styling,” Neil Hendy, head of design for womenswear, says. Tweed suits in grey and coats in camel shades make up a classic offering, alongside a pop of autumn/winter 2013’s favourite Pepto-Bismol pink.

In menswear, watch out for cashmere jumpers, double-breasted coats, and Prince of Wales check blazers that, suitably, seem fit for royalty. Can’t get more British than that.

Chief educational officer's circular on dress code stirs controversy

Thiruvalarselvi, who took charge as the new chief educational officer (CEO) of Karur district on Monday, has stirred up a hornet's nest by re-circulating a July 2012 School Education Department order on dress code for all school teachers.

Many teachers in the district who spoke to TOI on condition of anonymity said that trying to implement a dress code for teachers is a futile attempt and the CEOs of other districts never cared about the education departments' instruction to re-circulate an old order. The new CEO circulated the order just to make people know about her arrival in the post, they said.

The teaching community opposed the education department's assumption that the way the lady teachers dressed was responsible for the unacceptable behaviour of male students and that male teachers preferred to dress themselves up in jeans and t-shirts just to attract the attention of the girl students, a teacher said. "Dressing oneself in a dignified way was a purely subjective matter," he added.

However, Thiruvalarselvi told TOI that the dress code had to be followed strictly by all the schools since the Director of School Education Department had advised her to implement it strictly. She said the order on dress code had been in existence and she was just trying to implement it. "It is applicable to all the schools - government, Adi Dravidar, self-financing and aided schools - and I am going to strictly implement it since the director has sent the circular again," she clarified.

In a blog post, the CEO highlighted the importance of adhering to a 'decent dress'. However, many teachers said the message was vague.

"All I want is that the dress they (teachers) wear during school hours must be decent," Thiruvalarselvi told TOI. When asked to explain the definition of a 'decent dress' since there was a confusion over it, she said, "It must be in keeping with our culture."

Many teachers wondered if sleeveless jackets and jeans were decent dresses or not. They wanted the education department to specify what it meant by a decent dress. "The Education Department must try to find ways to instill discipline in the students, instead of implementing the vague dress code," a teacher said.

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